Trim Part III

Now, it's time to install the trim.  I prefer to start in the back of the room, and work my way to the front.  Sometimes, if you've cut the pieces really tightly, there's an issue with fit--and it's a lot easier to find out that the trim along the sides of the walls is slightly too long, where you can make a nice, straight cut to reduce the excess.  Here, I started with the baseboard.  I ran a bead of epoxy along the back side, and then pressed it into place.  I used the other two pieces of baseboard to press it in place and clamped them along the edge of the roombox.  For the sake of realism, it's important to get a nice, tight fit with the wall--and wood tends to bow out.

Generally, it's important to double-check your marks and measurements before you glue, and, after you set the piece in place but before the glue dries.  I'm a big fan of using scrap wood to hold pieces in place, since, particularly since they're often at odd angles.  It's impossible to use a standard clip on crown moulding, for example.  The consideration, here, is not gouging the floor.  I tend to put a piece of scrap wood, or paper, under the scrap wood to prevent any accidents.

Here, the room is complete.  Make sure you allow adequate drying time for each piece before you remove any clamps and supports.  Generally, I try to allow at least 25 minutes, for epoxy.  You need to allow more time--at least an hour--for tacky glue.  If the glue isn't dry when you remove the clamps and supports, then the piece is going to pop right back off the wall.  This is especially common when the pieces don't fit quite right, or there's any other type of stress on the wood.

Once the inside of the roombox is done, you can complete the outside.  This roombox has a false back, which is going to become the alley.  I saved it until last because I needed to install the door and window.  Now that the trim is all in place, I don't need to reach inside anymore.